Skin Science

Which Age-Defying Method Is Right for You?

By Teri Brown

New anti-aging techniques are allowing women to look younger for far longer than ever before. Botox, Restylane, Thermage, Microdermabrasion and a host of new laser methods mean women everywhere are taking advantage of the latest in age-defying techniques.

The downside to this explosion in skin science is the confusion it can bring to those of us who need it most. Which techniques should we use? We don't want to spend money on Thermage when a round of facials would do the trick. Why waste time on Botox if lasers would be better? The following information will lead you through the maze of anti-aging techniques and help you make informed decisions.

Perhaps nothing has created as much excitement in the world of skin care as Thermage. This technique uses radio waves dispensed through a pen-like instrument in a grid formation over the face. The heat from radio frequencies tightens or lifts the skin, removing or reducing wrinkles and other fine lines in the skin as well as producing new collagen. The procedure takes about half of a day, and although many patients report a pinching sensation, there is very little real pain.

Dr. Joshua Fox, director of advanced dermatology at the Center for Laser and Cosmetic Surgery in New York City, N.Y., believes Thermage can be used on almost all areas of the face. "Thermage treatment was approved for wrinkle treatment around the eyes, yet we are finding that it offers even better results in other areas such as around the jaw, nasal labia folds, neck and chin areas," says Dr. Fox.

Thermage isn't for everyone, though. It works best for people in their 30s, 40s or 50s, who have some areas with wrinkles or sagging skin. It does not work as well for people who have advanced wrinkling or sun-damaged skin.

The results last between one and two years, and though costs vary, you can expect to pay about $2,000 for the procedure.

Laser resurfacing is performed using a beam of laser energy that vaporizes the upper layers of damaged skin with controlled levels of penetration. As your skin heals, new cells are formed and tighter, younger looking skin is the result.

"There are two major types of lasers used in resurfacing: ablative and non-ablative," says Dr. Fox. Ablative lasers include the Carbon Dioxide Laser and the Erbium, both of which remove the top layers of skin, tightening and remodeling the collagen. Dr. Fox says this improves the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and to a lesser degree scars and sun damaged skin. There is approximately 70 to 80 percent improvement per treatment.

Non-ablative procedures, such as CoolTouch or Intense Pulsed Light, do not provide as much improvement, but usually there is not any down time. The non-ablative methods provide approximately 10 percent improvement per treatment.

When Monica Fedri, from Sherwood, Ore., wanted a laser treatment that would take care of her acne scarring, she chose a non-ablative method. Like many women, she needed something that would give her the results she desired, yet still allow her to return to work. "I had to wear a hat to protect my skin from the light, but the redness only lasted the day of the treatment," says Fedri. "I was able to go right to work afterwards."

According to Dr. Fox, some of the latest laser techniques combine both the Erbium and Carbon Dioxide lasers for better results.

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